The Imperial Guard – Imperial Guard is one of the factions in the Warhammer 40K universe, and they are known for their large armies of soldiers, tanks and artillery. Ushabti Bone can be used to paint the bones on the Imperial Guard miniatures, and can also be used to paint the bone-like details on their tanks and artillery. Ushabti Bone – Air Paint from Citadel Colour is an acrylic-based paint that is specifically designed for use in miniature painting. It is a versatile base coat that can be used as a foundation for other colours, and provides excellent coverage and a matt finish. The pigments used in this paint are carefully selected to ensure a realistic and natural bone color that is perfect for bringing miniatures to life. This paint is a great choice for beginners and experienced miniature painters alike, as it will help you to create a wide range of colours on your palette, particularly when it comes to painting bone or ivory details on your miniatures. This paint can be a great addition to your palette, as it can be blended with other colors, such as browns and yellows to create a realistic look of aged bone. What armies to paint with Ushabti Bone – Air Paint Most of surface painted with Basalt Grey. 1:1 mix of Basalt and Stonewall Grey on upper half. Top edge Stonewall Grey. Skulls

The steel was done with a base coat of Citadel Leadbelcher, an all-over layer of Nuln Oil, then a final edge highlight of Vallejo Game Color Silver. Ok, so the list of ghoul-related works is going to feature a few things that are technically listed as vampires or zombies but really are ghouls. It’s a harder list to assemble, so bear with me on this. Any additional boosts, such as the 10% Summer Escape boost, are added here (multiply target by 1.1). I recommend allowing the first coat to dry, then edge highlighting the armour again with white before adding the second coat of Sigismund as it gives a more pronounced edge. Step 6 – Paint the Details The gold was done with a base coat of Citadel Retributor Armor, an all over wash of Citadel Druchii Violet, chunky highlight with Citadel Auric Gold, and a final highlight of Vallejo Silver.

You can look at it that way, whether you need bone that’s been around for a while, or bone that’s freshly exposed, but I use the colors for another reason. It depends on the color palette I’m using on a model on which bone color I go with. If I have a model that already has a lot of yellow tones, or I feel the aged bone would just blend in too much, then I’ll probably use the grey/white option. The same goes for the other way around. I let the colors I’m using overall dictate the technique I use. At least 110 ushabti are required for the master quest cape, and at least 169 are required for the trimmed completionist cape. At level 99 Slayer, 150 souls are obtainable. Chaos scar and eyes were painted with Pro Acryl Dark Blue Grey. Edges done with Pro Acryl Turquoise. Shade all the silver joint areas of the armour with NuIn Oil. Take care to keep it off the Ushabti Bone coloured armour. Again, if you make a mistake, just let it dry fully and tidy up with some Ushabti Bone. Step 4 – Paint Highlights The next and most important step is the skin, which is a thinned Aethermatic Blue contrast paint. I start with a 5:3 ratio (5 parts Contrast Medium, 3 Aethermatic Blue) and do a few coats rather than one single coat. I find that thinning and doing smaller, lighter layers enables me to better control the contrast paint, and avoids making the models a bit too “blue” in the process. While I wouldn’t say things can go “wrong” here (as long as you like them!), these two models show a bit of the learning curve I had on thinning the paints. The first Crypt Horror below was without thinning the contrast, while the Crypt Flayer used a multi-coat approach. Both look good, but one looks a lot more “blue” while the other evokes an “icy”, “cool” feeling, which is what I wanted.

Enhance this weathering my mixing some White Scar into the above paints and adding smaller patches. P3 Paints did not really match very closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html An ushabti can be upgraded into a cursed ushabti by combining it with cursed amascut sand, which has a higher chance of capturing a creature's soul.

Initial Prep

http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. And that’s it! I hope you all liked seeing the knights of House Gloam. If I may submit a challenge for people who made it this far, consider doing a small replication of my Armiger project. Buy a box of Armigers and kitbash one of them and try to have them painted up within a week! It’s more fun than it sounds, I promise. I’d love to see what you all come up with, gross or otherwise!

As with earlier stages, if you make a mistake, just correct it with some Ushabti Bone. Step 5 – Glaze The Armour Finally, the Necropolis Stalker is an interesting model because while huge, it actually doesn’t have a lot of detail, and the swords draw the eye quite a bit at the same level as the face it has. For that reason I wanted to make the guards stand out a bit, and applied some Seraphim Sepia to them to give the bone on the handles a more aged look, as if they were crafted from something different than the Bonereapers themselves. Otherwise, he follows the same scheme as the others, layering various levels of the colors into one another over successive coats. This post appears to have lost its pictures! I’ll be re-uploading them, or redoing the post in the next couple of weeks! Apologies!

Tabard

FYI, on the grimdark scheme front, I’m also following this tutorial to paint some Space Wolves. But before you scream at me that Dark Angels and Space Wolves hate each-other. Well, these guys have been stood next to each other on my table for over a year and neither side has so much as batted an eyelid. Doing these really cemented my process for kitbashing and modeling. Basically my conversions either work “Top-down” or “Bottom-up”. “Top-down” is when you have a cool idea for what you want the end result to be (the spider Armiger came about from a want of a quadruped Armiger) while “Bottom-up” is when you have a cool bit or kit you really want to play around with and see on the model (the Tervigon belly was a great example of that). No matter how it starts however, the process is almost always the same: I gather what could only be described as a disaster of bits onto my hobby desk and mix up what is probably too much greenstuff. Then, as I construct the model, I compare the current step of the build with any bits within arms reach (or greenstuff) and do some dry fitting. Sometimes it fits like a charm, sometimes it takes some greenstuff and frustration. If I can share a tip for anyone getting started with these sorts of “advanced” conversions, don’t give up on a conversion, especially if it involves sculpting. Paint can do a ton of heavy lifting to make two things that look very unrelated unprimed look harmonious. Hopefully I’ve given you some ideas on ways you can paint skulls and bone for your miniatures. You can certainly follow this exactly, use a combination of these techniques, or just use them as a guide and create your own method. Mix the Mournfang Brown with Rhinox Hide and glaze again. At this point you should be coverring less than one thirds of it (roughly). Necrons – Necrons are a robotic, undead race, and Ushabti Bone is a great color to use for their skeletal bodies and other details to create a natural, bone-like effect.